No.69 Union Jacket | Olive-Tanned Horsehide (Charcoal)
Color:
The No.69 Union Jacket is a new design introduced in the fall of 2025. The exclusive design is inspired from vintage leather jackets in the 1940's-60's. With subtle and unique design features like the front snap-flap closure, floating snap cuff straps, suede lined hand-pockets and Japanese crafted "UNIVERSAL"® brand zippers that are designed from 1940's-50's military wear. This version is made from a German, Olive-Tanned Horsehide in a matte charcoal color and lined with an 8oz. 100% cotton camo lining (Imported from the Yoshiwa Mill in Japan).
THE No.69 FIT & DETAILS
The No.69 cut is an exceptional fit, that follows our standard US sizing scale with a slightly more tapered body than our in-stock jackets. The back is cut from just two pieces and is a vintage, deep yoke design. The sleeves taper with an adjustable snap strap that sits just above the wrist and the back buckles are solid-brass, Italian made. We lined the collar and all the strap adjusters with a contrasting 3oz. suede, including the double-welted hand pockets.
ONE-HIDE for ONE-JACKET | German Horsehide
The entire No.69 jacket is hand-cut from ONE complete whole horsehide, a process that is extremely rare and unheard of today. Because this is a horsehide from Germany and they do not tan shell cordovan leather, the hides are complete, whole hides unlike our horse fronts from Horween® Leather in Chicago. By cutting the same hide for the entire jacket, we get better color and texture matching throughout the jacket. Each back panel (upper yoke & center back) will be cut from the crest of the hide where the horses mane was. With only one per hide, each crest line is completely unique and will be carried on the back of each jacket to honor the horse.
OLIVE-TANNED EUROPEAN HORSEHIDE
The leather used is a 100% Olive-Tanned German Horsehide. The tanning extracts are created from the olive leaves gathered during the harvest. Where they would be typically burned, they are collected and used to create a tannin for the leather so pure you can sip it like tea. The smell and feel of the leather after the olive-tanning is pure, natural and spectacular. The leather is lightly buffed or "kissed" in finishing, then heat plated. We embrace the natural, wild and rugged horsehide by cutting all the healed scars, scratches and other signs of age in the animal.
Read more about the Olive-Tanning process and this unique leather below
MICRO-LIMITED EDITION SERIES | Only x8 Made With Individual Serial#
This is a special jacket made from a really special leather. We directly imported (35) hides in four colors, all from Germany specifically for this jacket. Each hide will be made into ONE jacket and once they are all cut we will do our best to bring back another small batch. The jacket will be embossed directly into the neck label with a unique 7-digit serial#. The number is logged in our system and identifies the time of year and sequence of the production.
Limited Edition Series | USA
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ONE-HIde for one-jacket
Because the horsehide is tanned and finished in a smaller, specialized tannery in Germany that does NOT produce shell cordovan or horse strips, the hides are complete WHOLE HORSEHIDES not Horse Fronts. This is particularly unusual and very useful for jackets. Because the hides are from larger animals and they are whole horsehides, we are able to cut ONE-JACKET from ONE-HIDE, a completely unheard of process. The entire jacket will be made from the same horsehide, something you will not see anywhere else. It is not “production efficient” and very unorthodox but makes an unbelievable jacket with the center mane cut down the back and consistent color/shade tones.
NORTHERN EUROPEAN HORSEHIDES | TANNED IN GERMANY
OLIVE TANNED HORSEHIDE
It all starts with the hides. The majority are from Iceland and a smaller selection from Germany and Switzerland. They are primarily older animals, so they are larger hides and show signs of a long life. The olive tannage embraces the natural character of the animal and the hide rather than concealing the signs of life with heavy finishes and embossing. This is not only out of respect for the animal but for the environment and the people who help to produce this beautiful leather throughout the entire process in Germany.
THE TANNING PROCESS
The leather is tanned 100% with extracts from olive tree leaves, which is particularly sustainable with over 70% of the tannin in olive trees coming from the leaves. The extract is so pure and natural it can be sipped like tea. The other unique advantage is the olive leaves are waste products from the olive harvest, so there is no need to kill the tree which is common with other vegetable tanning agents that is found within the BARK not the leaves. Traditionally, the olive leaves are burned during the harvest but now are collected in the Mediterranean region for "Olive Tanning" leather.
Like most vegetable tanned leathers, olive tanned leather is dyed in the barrel, without heavy metals. The leather remains aniline without finishing. The hides are lightly buffed by the sanding machine and then ironed and milled again for a few minutes to give them an absolutely unique handfeel and look. Each hide and section can be slightly different, making the product truly unique and authentic, with no two hides being exactly the same.
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